How diverse and interesting is the fashion world, right? Even more when we talk specifically about the luxury sector. Is luxury fashion industry exempt from labor exploitation? We could say yes (we wish we could say yes), of course if we focus on their ideology around the concept. However, unfortunately the reality is different. The Royal Academy of the Spanish Language (RAE for its acronym in Spanish) defines luxury as: “high category, excellence or exquisiteness that has something for the quality of the raw materials used in its manufacture, its high performance or services“.
When we talk about luxury products, we are not only referring to beautiful bags, jewelry, clothes, shoes, accessories, etc. We are also referring to the idealization and aspiration that revolves around a high lifestyle. Luxury items do not satisfy basic or immediate needs, they satisfy aspiration, well-being and socioeconomic status, to name a few. In life we cannot generalize anything, but it is very likely that for a large percentage of people worldwide. Although luxury world might sound like a be a dream life, but probably for another percentage of the population the same word is rather associated with a nightmare; the manufacturers.
Luxury fashion a billion dollar industry
Luxury fashion industry is valued in 283 billion euros in 2021 according to data from STATISTA. The price of items offered by brands such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, Hermés, among others, easily exceed 1,000 euros. The factors that determine the price of these products are many. Very high quality materials used, manufacturing processes, prestige of the brand or firm, place and production costs, of course an exclusive service and customer service, experience, trends, novelty and even the aspirational aspect that they provide, among others. But what is behind a Prada Galleria bag?, for example.
All products need a production process, from the smallest and simplest to the largest and most elaborate. It could be said that these production processes are carried out using high standards. Not only in relation to the materials used, but also to the manufacturing work environment. Sure, we’re talking about luxury brands, right? Unfortunately that is not the reality.
The variants of sustainability
Nowadays, the term “sustainability” is gaining more importance, popularity and strength around the world. But let’s keep in mind that sustainability is not only related to the environment. This concept also encompasses a very important topic; ethics and social responsibility and, to be more specific, job quality. The fashion industry is divided into different categories and one of these categories is fast fashion. A famous term in which the consumer has paid important attention to denounce bad practices, such as contamination and labor exploitation by companies belonging to this sector. Unfortunately, these bad practices are not exclusive of fast fashion. The luxury category as well is a participant. Mainly, the problem is focused within the chain of supplements, specifically in the production area; where certain brands seek to reduce costs as much as possible.
Despite the fact that these are two totally different categories, certain activities carried out by them could be practically the same. Sadly. How is it done? Giving a certain part of the production of certain items such as bags, shoes and other accessories to external companies; subcontractors. This is a very viable option for luxury brands because this way they avoid economic, legal and social responsibilities but still enjoy the privilege of obtaining the final product they are looking for. KnowTheChain, a site that seeks to improve problems within the supply chain, places companies within a ranking depending on the practices they carry out. On the other hand LVMH, on of the strongest conglomerate of luxury brands, is ranked 29th out of 37 companies, while Kering is ranked 21st out of 37 companies.
Luxury goods producers
A report also published by STATISTA shares that the main countries where the production of luxury goods is concentrated globally are United States, China, Japan and Italy in the fourth place. Nevertheless, the workers who carry out the labor are usually immigrants who arrive into these countries with the hope of finding job opportunities that allows them to have a decent life. Sadly, they end up encountering job opportunities in factories that are often clandestine, which are responsible for the production of these items externally for world-renowned luxury brands. These subcontracting companies offer employees work with excessive hours for a salary, even below the minimum established by law and in unworthy circumstances.
“The Light and Shade of Fashion”
Many times, even without the appropriate safety equipment, and additional benefits, it is better not to say anything. “The Light and Shade of Fashion”, published by Moconomy talks precisely about this problem and in which the affected employees are given a voice we can notice an important injustice in relation to the numbers. The sale price of some YSL shoes exceeds 700 euros, but the brand pays around 24 euros per piece and for each piece made, the owner of the factory pays 4 euros to his employees.
Let’s keep in mind that the data is real because this situation is real. Although it is a video from about 6 years ago, it is worth watching to ask ourselves: has there been a positive evolution in favor of workers in these years? What has changed? What has improved? Which companies have taken action on the matter to stop these abuses? What are governments doing about it? Laws have been implemented that ensure the rights of employees? There are already official regulations that sanction the companies and brands that are participants? Is there a before and after after so many years? Has the situation changed/improved in these 6 years? Or has time simply stopped partially and in all this time things remain the same?
What about labor regulations?
It is true that there are some organizations and/or associations that fight for the rights of employees. Fair Labor Association, Industrial Workers of the World, International Center for Trade Union Rights, International Labor Rights Forum, International Labor Organization, Socialist International, BLUESIGN, Certified B Corporation, Fairtrade, The Forest Stewardship Council, The Global Organic Textile Standard, Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production, SA 8000 are some of them. These organizations are the light at the end of the tunnel for many workers, but there is still a long way to go. The issue of sustainability in all its senses must be important not only for some. Governments must apply more force in relation to regulations so that companies act in an ethical and responsible manner. And we are not talking only about the luxury fashion industry but in all industries, because let’s remember that everything is connected.
On the other hand, it is not about pointing out the brands that pollute or that practice forced labor. It is also about doing an introspection to analyze and recognize our participation in these unfortunate situations. As mentioned a few moments ago; everything is related. Although the consumer of these products has a somewhat indirect participation, in the end it is still a participation and it is important to recognize it and be aware of it. That will be the starting point to be able to make changes and demand changes.
Any life is worth more than any amount of money
Numbers. Numbers are important and it is probably easy to give us a much more reliable and objective idea when we have hard data. For example, when comparing the final price of a luxury product vs. what the brand pays the factory vs. what the employee actually earns, we can see an undoubted injustice. But we cannot base the obvious problem only on numbers and much less on money. These are human beings who spend practically their entire day working under inhuman conditions where the facilities are not optimal.
Many times the production process of luxury items requires the use of tools, machines and chemicals that can affect health and it is important to have adequate protection and protocols to carry out this work correctly and avoid accidents. Unfortunately, employees do not carry out their work with the appropriate equipment because the owners do not provide it and because, at the same time, the brands do not require it either.
It is human lives we are talking about
In a certain way, it is heartbreaking to think and realize the world in which we live, where economic interests, profits, the billionaire valuation of industries are celebrated more and are prioritized above human lives. The whole focus is on how much money is being made rather than how much action is being taken to give workers decent work. We are talking about human lives, we are talking about people who, because their situation and life are different from ours, do not mean that they are different from us. All life is valuable and worthy of respect.
In search of balance and justice
So what can we do? Education is always the best option to generate change. We can start with the basics; stop looking the other way. It is important that we inform ourselves and update ourselves on what is happening. Unfortunately, the mass media do not talk much about these issues, but the information exists. It will be enough to carry out a personal investigation to know more about it. Let’s keep in mind that the way companies treat their employees, might be also a reflection company’s real DNA.
I believe in one thing: that only a life lived for others is a life worth living.
Albert Einstein
As mentioned before, the point is not to blame, but to recognize that we are part of the problem. However, just as we indirectly or directly influence the not very positive aspects, we can also change the course of things and influence positive actions. All of us have the right to demand and raise our voices for those who are not heard, whether or not we are consumers of luxury products. The fact of being or not being the target consumer of luxury brands does not exclude us from our right to ask both governments and companies for better practices.
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