The COP 29 and the union of fashion and sustainability

Translator
Viviana Grasso

UN climate change conferences (COPs) are often considered crucial moments in charting the global course towards sustainability. The recent edition of this summit showed the gap between political promises and reality. The failure of COP 29 has made many reflect on the union of fashion and sustainability. Indeed, this has provoked a wide debate, encouraging many to think deeply about the complex relationship between fashion and sustainability, and how ready the fashion industry is to face the environmental challenges that climate change imposes. As a matter of fact, the fashion industry is an industry that is facing increasing pressure to become more sustainable and environmentally responsible. However, the lack of global political leadership could also affect Fashion, reducing the importance of the efforts made so far.

COP 29 in Baku, Azerbajan

The COP and the Fashion Industry: A Complex Combination

The fashion industry is one of the main contributors to global carbon emissions, with estimates suggesting it accounts for around 10% of global emissions. This makes the industry crucial in the climate change negotiations. It is also uniquely able through its impact on consumer culture and audiences to become a catalyst for change. The failure of this summit has left many thinking about the combination of fashion and sustainability. In this context, each COP conference is seen as an opportunity to push the industry towards greater sustainability.

Even though progress has been made by some fashion companies, global responses to climate change remain too slow and insufficient. The failure of COP29 has stimulated reflections on the link between fashion and sustainability. If the COP fails to produce concrete results, industries such as fashion have to deal with their own contradictions.

The ‘Failure’ of the COP and its Implications

The term ‘failure’ does not refer to a complete lack of progress, but to the lack of decisive actions that could effectively address the climate crisis. Many experts point out that COP 29 was once again a missed opportunity to strengthen policies to reduce global emissions. Among the main reasons for this failure are political difficulties, conflicting economic interests, and resistance to radical changes. Especially when we consider how these factors could affect the main emitters of greenhouse gases.

The policies discussed have not resolved the gap between developed and developing nations. This is even more evident when one examines how the international community has missed the opportunity to create a universal climate finance mechanism. Such an instrument could support the most vulnerable countries to address climate change damages.

This has significant implications for the industry as it faces increasing pressure from consumers and activists. Furthermore, the industry is trying to navigate this global political climate with ever-changing policies. The failure of COP 29 has left many wondering about the marriage of fashion and sustainability.

Provocative image about over-cosumption

Quali conseguenze per la Moda dopo la COP 29?

  1. The Contradictions of Greenwashing

One of the most worrying aspects of the COP failure is the persistent phenomenon of greenwashing. Despite some improvements, fashion continues to see a large number of brands claiming to be sustainable without a real structured commitment. In many cases, companies have merely adopted superficial and partial solutions to improve their brand image. This without implementing deep and measurable changes in their environmental impact. This trend may be exacerbated by the continuing political uncertainty resulting from a COP that has failed to establish clear and binding rules.

The risk is that, without strong and concrete political commitments, fashion companies may continue to take the path of lesser efforts. Relying on cosmetic ‘green’ initiatives, which bring no real benefit to the environment.

  1. Consumer Pressure

Another central aspect of the article concerns the growing consumer awareness of sustainability. Even if international policy fails to push the necessary changes, consumer behaviour is changing significantly. More and more people are willing to pay more for products that are perceived as sustainable, ethical and responsible. This is an important signal for the fashion industry, which could find in consumer demands a powerful driver for change.

However, if international policies do not create a favourable environment, progress towards sustainable fashion risks remaining fragmented. The demand for change exists, but the industry needs strong policy and regulatory guidance to make meaningful choices.

  1. The Rise of Local Legislation and Regulations

Due to the lack of decisive global action, some countries and regions have started to implement national and local legislation to tackle unsustainable fashion. For instance, the European Union has proposed stricter regulations on traceability of the supply chain, textile production and the environmental impact of the fashion industry. In the future, fashion could be regulated more at national or regional level, with direct impacts on global brands.

Although these initiatives are welcome, they often lack a global reach, which means that companies may try to ‘jump’ from one region to another to avoid having to comply with stricter regulations. A truly global solution would therefore be the best outcome to ensure a truly sustainable fashion industry.

  1. Innovation and Sustainability: A Necessary Thrust

Despite the uncertain political environment, innovation in the fashion industry has not stopped. In recent years, we have seen sustainability initiatives grow thanks to new technologies, such as the use of biodegradable materials, improved production through renewable energy, and the emergence of new platforms for clothing rental and the circular economy. These developments offer hope for the future, showing that the industry may be able to change, even if not always in a systematic way.

If on one hand the failure of the COP could reduce the global push towards sustainability policies, on the other hand technological innovation and the growing consumer demand for sustainability could provide an alternative to slowing down policies.

Image representing innovation and fashion
  1. The Crucial Role of Private-Public Sector Alliances

Another important observation concerns the role of the private sector and alliances between companies, NGOs, and governments. In a context where governments do not take decisive action, there is, however, scope for action towards a more sustainable future. Indeed, alliances between fashion companies and climate activists are becoming increasingly influential and ready to fill this void. Coalitions between fashion companies committed to sustainability, such as the Fashion Pact, could continue to play a significant role in promoting real change. If well supported, these alliances could fill the gap left by the lack of political action.

Conclusions

The failure of COP29 revealed the difficulties of a global system that is struggling to take decisive and coherent decisions to combat climate change. This has left many wondering about the combination of fashion and sustainability. However, the fashion industry still has the opportunity to drive significant change, both through growing consumer awareness and technological innovations. Indeed, the latter will be key to making the industry more sustainable. International policies are crucial, but companies must still be ready to act on their own, promoting sustainability as a competitive advantage. The real challenge for fashion is to be able to meet consumers’ expectations, keeping up with innovations and sending clear signals of commitment to a sustainable future.

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